By Liam Continuing on our Balkans theme, today we’ll share our “One Week in Montenegro” itinerary for first time visitors. We’ve already covered Serbia and Bosnia and now we’ll move on to an underappreciated Balkan country.
Montenegro has beaches, mountains, quaint cities and some amazing monasteries to check out. While it doesn’t receive the same press as Croatia, it certainly deserves a look.
Montenegro is an essential part of a larger Balkans itinerary and has some must-visit destinations. You may have heard of the Bay of Kotor, but there’s more to Montenegro. Bordering Serbia, Albania, Croatia, Bosnia and Kosovo, Montenegro is also easily accessible from other Balkan countries.
Here is our One Week in Montenegro guide, which starts with the capital, Podgorica, pronounced Pod-gore-eat-sa.
Podgorica – One Day
One Week in Montenegro: How to Arrive/Where to Stay in Podgorica
Podgorica is Montenegro’s capital and biggest city, with only 180,000 people. Montenegro has just 616,000 people in total, meaning more people live in Oklahoma City than in the small Balkan nation.
Despite its small size, there are a decent number of flights from major European cities to Podgorica. Otherwise, it is easy to take a bus in from Albania.
If you’re flying in, you can rent a car for easier day trips. However, the buses, and even trains, run reasonably well in Montenegro. All of the cities, at least near the coast, are close together.
If you’re starting out in Croatia, or Southern Bosnia, you can try out this itinerary in reverse. In that case, Herceg Novi, in the southwestern part of the country, may be the best starting point.
For a quick stay in Podgorica, consider looking on Airbnb. There are entire apartments within walking distance of the city center for around $25 per night. Hostels are rare but Q Podgorica has dorm beds available for around $20.
One Week in Montenegro: Things to Do in Podgorica
Tourists do not flock to Podgorica, plenty of people skip over it entirely and head to the beach or mountains. Regardless, you can have a relaxing day in the city and take things slow.
The best thing I saw in Podgorica was the Orthodox Temple of Christ’s Resurrection. The gold-plated mosaics are incredible to see and it’s just a 20 minute walk from the city center.
On the same side of the Moraca river, you’ll find the Petrovic Castle, which has art exhibitions and is located in a tranquil park.
Across the river, take a stroll at Njegosev Park and check out the Roman Old Ribnica River Bridge.
Gorica Park has nice views of the city and is an excellent place to walk, run and bike. The old, charming orthodox Saint George Church is right outside of the park grounds and worth a stop.
I didn’t venture out to the Ancient Doclea Ruins but they are Roman ruins just a few miles from the city center.
The most popular day trip from Podgorica is to the hilltop Ostrog Monastery, which is the most important religious site for Orthodox Montenegrins and carved into the side of the mountain.
To reach it, it’s about an hour by car from Podgorica or an hour train ride, which only costs around $2. From the Ostrog station, it’s a long walk up to the monastery but most people say it is worth it.
One Week in Montenegro: Where to Eat in Podgorica
Once I arrived by bus from Albania, I ate at the nearby Rostilj Beli and it definitely did the trick. They serve up grilled meats and salads.
Vitamince is perfect for vegetarians and those wanting a healthy meal. They have smoothies, salads and sandwiches.
If you’re craving something different, Antioch Cafe and Masala Art are delicious options for Turkish and Indian food, respectively. They’re both located near the Orthodox Temple of Christ’s Resurrection.
Cetinje (Lovcen National Park) – One and a Half Days
One Week in Montenegro: How to Arrive/Where to Stay in Cetinje
Cetinje is a nice quick stop on the “One Week in Montengero” itinerary. It is the former royal capital of Montenegro and just a 35 minute drive or 45 bus ride from Podgorica. Bus tickets from Podgorica can be as cheap as €3.
If you’re driving, you can stop at the stunning Rijeka Crnojevica river bend. There is a viewpoint where you can snap some incredible photos.
I stayed at Apartments Ana on Airbnb and it would be a good deal for two people. It’s usually $25-30 a night and quite cozy. Also, there is the Ka Doma Hostel, which runs at around $15 per night for a dorm bed.
One Week in Montenegro: Things to Do in Cetinje
For a small town, there is a surprising amount of things to do in Cetinje. The former royal capital is also coincidentally the cultural center of Montenegro. If you are into museums it’s a place you shouldn’t hesitate to stop at while you’re in the country.
Just €20 will get you into all of the nationally administered museums in the country. It is a good deal even if you only head to a couple of museums in Cetinje and take a day trip to Lovcen National Park.
The National Museum of Montenegro, Ethnographic Museum, Njegos Museum and King Nikola’s Museum (former royal palace) are all located in Cetinje. They all aid in understanding Montenegro’s history.
Colorful buildings like the yellow Djukanovic House and Blue Palace are popular spots for photos in town, along with the hilltop Mausoleum of Bishop Danilo.
Regardless, the most famous place in town is Cetinje Monastery. If you can only see one thing in Cetinje, I’d absolutely pick the Monastery.
If you have more time, stroll down the pedestrian streets, check out the Castle Church, and spend time in the ample green spaces.
Cetinje is the closest city to Lovcen National Park, which is home to the Njegos Mausoleum and panoramic views in all directions. It’s a 35 minute drive to the Mausoleum from Cetinje and you can either go by rental car or taxi. Another option is hiking from the park entrance, which is only a 25 minute drive away from Cetinje.
One Week in Montenegro: What to Eat in Cetinje
Restaurant options in Cetinje are pretty local cuisine-heavy, which isn’t a bad thing.
Restoran Crna Gora was the best value option in the area. There, you can find plentiful portions of grilled meat, like Cevapi and chicken, and vegetables. It also has a nice location in the city center and outdoor seating.
Kole Restaurant serves all three meals of the day and I had a risotto I was impressed with.
Restoran Taverna is another option for solid food with a rustic atmosphere.
Budva – One and a Half Days
How to Arrive/Where to Stay in Budva
After checking out Cetinje and Lovcen National Park, consider heading to the Budva Riviera. Budva is a very popular tourist destination in the Summer but the crowds dissipate in the shoulder seasons. It makes for a nice trip and even the 30 minute drive down from Cetinje is beautiful.
Alternatively, you can take the bus to Budva for as little as €3, which only takes around 40 minutes. With plenty of holiday rentals, entire apartments on Booking.com routinely go for just over $20.
Meanwhile, High Hostel offers dorm beds for $13. Cities in Montenegro are small and anywhere near the city center is a fine area to stay.
Things to Do in Budva
Most of the attractions in Budva are located close to the Budva Promenade. Make sure to walk through Budva’s small and charming Old Town. Once you’re inside the city walls, check out the Church of Saint John the Baptist, especially at night when the Bell Tower is illuminated.
For €5.50, you can go inside the Budva Citadel and walk the city walls for a much cheaper price than in Dubrovnik, Croatia. One of the most photogenic places in Old Town is the aptly-named Square of Poets.
In my opinion, the best beaches within city limits are Mogren Beach and Plaza Ricardova Glava. While Mogren Beach is secluded with cliff views, Ricardova Glava has the backdrop of the Old Town walls with mountains behind it.
Mogren Beach has two parts, which are connected by a unique wooden plank door through jagged rocks. From the western part of Mogren Beach, I decided to hike to the ruins of the Austro-Hungarian Fort Mogren. On the way, there are incredible views of the Adriatic Sea and the city.
Another hike in Budva is up to Podmaine Monastery, which is well off the beaten path. It’s in a quiet part of town and makes for a very tranquil visit to a beautiful Orthodox complex.
If you walk towards the main road from Podmaine, you’ll see an incredible view from above the city that you may have missed if you were sleeping on the bus!
What to Eat
Korean Food Montenegro, as its name suggests, may actually be the only place to get Korean food in the whole country.
Meanwhile, Zdrava Hrana has fresh vegetarian food for a change of pace from meat.
Try the fish soup at Kuzina, which has a traditional Montenegrin menu and is one of the most popular restaurants in Budva. Also consider M-Irena if you’re in the mood for local food that is meat heavy.
You’re on the coast and might as well continue eating seafood. Fish Bar Budva has a good quality to price ratio and plenty of different seafood dishes.
Kotor – Two Days
How to Arrive/Where to Stay
Kotor, the most popular tourist destination in Montengro, is close to Budva by car or bus. It’s an essential stop while spending one week in Montenegro. The drive from Budva should take around half an hour and the bus will be slightly longer. Bus tickets from Budva can be as cheap as €3.50.
While I’d recommend avoiding Montenegro during the Summer in general, that’s especially the case for Kotor. Cruise ships dock in Kotor in the Summer months and things can get chaotic and claustrophobic.
Kotor still has great weather in May and October and you’ll save a lot money on accommodations. Prices in Kotor are higher than other destinations in Montenegro regardless, so plan accordingly.
You may be able to find an apartment for $30 per night on Airbnb or Booking.com if you book in advance. Meanwhile, hostel beds run around $20 and they’re not a bad option if you’re looking to stay directly in the city center.
Things to Do
The principal city on its namesake Bay of Kotor, Kotor is right on the water surrounded by steep mountains. It has one of the largest and best preserved old towns in Montenegro and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
So, heading to Old Town is a common first stop and it’s undeniably beautiful. I’d also recommend walking along and outside the fortified walls to take it all in, especially near the Gurdic Bastion and Kampana Tower.
One way to avoid the crowds and see incredible panoramic views in Kotor is to hike. There is typically a €15 entrance fee to enter Kotor Fortress. However, you can sidestep that fee by hiking up the Ladder of Kotor and popping into the fortress on the way down.
The top of the ladder is not where the hiking stops, though, as you can continue on to the Old Fort Trail. This hike was the biggest highlight of my trip to Montenegro and I actually hiked all the way on to Lovcen National Park and back during the same day.
So, if your itinerary skips Cetinje, you can still make it to Lovcen and the Njegos Mausoleum by foot. Just be warned that it will be a seven or eight hour affair, minimum. If you want to see Old Town from a different perspective, head west from the bus station and hike up to Vrmac Fort.
Another one of the my favorite activities was running north along the bay, which had inspiring views the entire way.
What to Eat
After a long day full of hiking, don’t hesitate to order a feast at Tangja BBQ. Their portion sizes are huge and their plates include meat, potatoes, salad and sauce.
I enjoyed the Turkish food at Tiha Noc in the Dobrota area, which is north of Old Town. For a quick snack, like burek, head to Sandrela Pekara, which is also in Dobrota.
Herceg Novi – One and a Half Days
How to Arrive/Where to Stay
The last stop on our busy one week in Montenegro itinerary is Herceg Novi, which is in the western part of the country, close to the Croatian border. It’s about an hour drive, and bus ride, away from Kotor. Bus tickets from Kotor typically go for around €4.
On the way to Herceg Novi, we’d recommend checking out Perast, which is one of the most beautiful towns in Montenegro. It is on the way to Herceg Novi, just about 20 minutes from Kotor. Boat rides are popular here, especially to check out the Our Lady of the Rocks Island, with its blue domed church.
Stay close to the water in Herceg Novi if you can. Tomanovic Guest House is a highly-rated place to stay for around $25 per night. If you want something more private it’ll be closer to $30-35 per night.
Things to Do
One of the highlights of a one week in Montenegro trip will be the Savina Monastery, which is about a 25 minute walk from the city center. It had one of the best views I saw in Montenegro and I was the only person there when I went, so it felt very relaxing.
Wander around Old Town and check out Belavista Square, which has a clock tower that looks like it is straight out of Shrek. Old Town also has the Kanli Kula fortress (€4), which has good views but isn’t absolutely essential. For an even better view of Herceg Novi, walk up to the remains of the Spanish Fortress, which is free and absolutely worth it.
I also really enjoyed walking, and running, along the waterfront promenade. In Old Town, there is a local produce market which is a good place to grab some fresh fruit.
What to Eat
Peter’s Pie and Coffee is a good stop for a healthy lunch or quiche. They make their own sourdough bread in house.
Bife Beograd has a really nice view of the water and I stopped there for breakfast on a couple of occasions. They have a big menu that covers all three meals, though.
For fish, try Konoba Karaca, which is located right in Old Town. If you’re not too full after you eat, you could join in on a local pickup basketball game right next to the restaurant.
I walked a few miles west on the waterfront promenade, nearly made it to the Croatian border, and stumbled across Restoran Babic. The big portions really hit the spot after a long walk.
What’s Next after one week in Montenegro?
The trip doesn’t have to stop here and one week in Montenegro could easily turn into 10 days or two weeks. This is a hurried itinerary for people who don’t have much time but it would best be enjoyed at a slower pace. Zabljak, Durmitor National Park and the Tara River Canyon are all also worth visiting in the northern part of Montenegro.
After Montenegro, you could head into nearby Croatia and check out the walled city of Dubrovnik. You could also head into Bosnia and Herzegovina, as the southern city of Trebinje is quite close to Herceg Novi. If you’re completing this itinerary in reverse, Albania is the next logical stop.
If you’re heading back home after one week in Montenegro, both Tivat and Podgorica airports have connections to major European airports, especially during high season.
Stay tuned for more Balkans itineraries!
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