By Liam Even among a bunch of gems in the Balkans, Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the standout countries to visit. It is a country that blends cultures, religions, food and architecture. It feels like a midpoint between the East and West. So much so that Sarajevo, Bosnia’s capital, is often called the Jerusalem of Europe. All of these are good reasons to spend at least one week in Bosnia and check out a sampling of what the country has to offer.
Sarajevo is one of the few places in Europe to have a mosque, orthodox church and synagogue in the same neighborhood. It’s a must-see in Bosnia but we’ll also discuss some lesser-known options in the Balkan nation.
Bosnia, divided between the Bosniak majority Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Serb majority Republika Srpska, has a fraught political history. Still, this land of contrasts makes for an intriguing and unique travel experience, which I can’t recommend enough.
One Week in Bosnia – Visegrad – One Full Day
Arriving/Where to Stay
If you complete our One Week in Serbia itinerary in reverse you’ll finish up your trip in Belgrade. From Belgrade you can start One Week in Bosnia by heading to Visegrad in the Republika Srpska. There is a direct bus once daily, that takes seven hours or so, but it’ll only take you three and a half hours by car.
For a place to stay around $25 a night and an excellent view of the famous Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic bridge, check out Apartmani Helena. Booking.com has a few cheap options and Visegrad is a small, walkable town so it doesn’t matter much which specific area you stay in.
Things to Do
Visegrad is home to the Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s one of the most stunning Ottoman-era bridges in the Balkans. It is worth taking in all of the views of the bridge and the Drina River. One of the best views of the bridge is at “Old City Visegrad” on Google Maps and you can reach it by taking a short unmarked hike. Another option is a water taxi tour of the Drina.
Ivo Andric won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1961 for his book “The Bridge on the Drina” that is about the bridge, Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman occupations and the effects on the Bosniak and Serb people. There has been even more change in the region in the last 30 years as Visegrad became part of the Serb-majority Republika Srpska after the Bosnian War.
The Serbian filmmaker Emir Kusturica recreated the Visegrad of Andric’s novel. Finished in 2014, Andricgrad is a “town within a town” at the confluence of the Drina and Rzav rivers. It has divided opinion but it’s worth checking out at the very least.
If you have a rental car, you can admire the breathtaking scenery along the Drina, especially where the Lim meets the Drina. Just drive south 15 minutes along the M5 and take in the views, which have been described as some of the best in Bosnia.
Where to Eat/Drink
Open from breakfast until dinner, Restoran Usce is one of the best restaurants in Visegrad. I went twice during my short stay in Visegrad and highly recommend it. Everything from crepes, cevapi, grilled meat, fish and vegan options are on the menu.
Kruna is another great option in the center of Visegrad with a traditional Balkan menu and an atmosphere that feels like home.
Cafe Poslasticarna Belvedere is right on the river and a fine stop for a coffee or a beer.
One Week in Bosnia – Sarajevo – At Least Two Full Days
Arriving/Where to Stay
One week in Bosnia certainly wouldn’t be complete without heading to Sarajevo, the capital. It’s a three hour bus trip from Visegrad to Sarajevo Istocno station. A few minutes away from the station, you can take trolleybus 103 to the city center for 1.8 marks (~$0.96). Sarajevo is also a two hour drive from Visegrad by car.
Some of the best areas to stay in include Marijin Dvor, Grbavica, Skenderija and Old Town. There are entire apartments on Booking.com for around $25 per night in these areas or close by. Staying in these areas will allow you to see most of what Sarajevo has to offer by foot. A hostel bed will run you around $10 per night.
Things to Do
One Week in Bosnia – Sarajevo City Center
Bascarsija is Sarajevo’s Ottoman-era bazaar that is around 600 years old and the city’s most popular tourist attraction. There are plenty of historical buildings, shops and places to eat in Bascarsija. Here, you’ll understand why Sarajevo is called the “Jerusalem of Europe” as there are mosques, synagogues and churches in close proximity.
In the bazaar, check out the famous fountain (Sebilj), the Gazi Huzrev-Beg mosque and the clock tower (Sahat kula). Wander through the narrow streets and take in all of the sights and sounds of Sarajevo’s bustling center.
Directly west of Bascarsija is the upscale Ferhadija pedestrian street where you’ll find Sarajevo’s Sacred Heart Cathedral.
Leading south out of Bascarsija, you’ll find the small and charming Latin Bridge over the Miljacka River.
In the east part of Bascarsija, Sarajevo’s City Hall stands out for its unique architecture. From here, take a 10 minute walk up to the Yellow Fortress for the best sunset spot and a panoramic view of the city.
One Week in Bosnia – Venturing Out of Sarajevo’s Center
After spending a day in the center, consider heading up to Trebevic Mountain, one of the sites of the 1984 Winter Olympics. You can either take the cable car (~$16) or hike up like I did to get some exercise and save some money.
Up on the mountain, there are some interesting abandoned places, like the Olympic Bobsled Track and Bistrik Tower, which I had a blast exploring. Plus, there are plenty of hiking trails and views of the city below.
Given more time in the city, there are plenty of other activities. The Ali Pasha Mosque is one of the most iconic mosques in the city and it is located near the famous Vilsonovo Setaliste. Vilsonovo is a tree-lined pedestrian promenade that is a great place to take a stroll, run and people watch.
To learn more about Sarajevo’s history, head to the Tunnel of Salvation war museum. Further west, you’ll find the Vrelo Bosna spring and nature preserve. It’s a perfect place for a walk and picnic and is one of the most beautiful places in Sarajevo. These activities are a little far out of the center so they become a lot more convenient with a car. However, arriving by public transport is possible.
Where to Eat/Drink
Bosnian burek (a savory pastry) is well-renowned and you have to try it in Sarajevo during one week in Bosnia. You really can’t go wrong at most Buregdzinicas. Some of the most famous places in the center are Buregdzinica Sac, Bosna and Beciri. Further west, some of the best options are Forino and Nagib.
Popular burek fillings include spinach and cheese, meat and cheese. Burek is even better with yogurt on the side. I must have eaten burek at least 30 times during my two month trip to the Balkans. It’s so good I seek it out wherever I travel to now.
Cevapi is grilled minced meat which is formed into small sausages. It is an incredibly popular food in Bosnia and throughout the Balkans.
There are plenty of Cevabdzinicas to try it at and it’s traditionally served with onions, pita and kaymak (similar to clotted cream). I can personally vouch for Cevabdzinica Beg but Bascarsija’s Zeljo and Petica Ferhatovic also receive great reviews.
The Singing Nettle is a unique restaurant not far from Bascarsija. They combine local plants and herbs (especially nettle) with traditional Bosnian cuisine. If you’re out near the Istocno Bus Station, Humam Food is an excellent option for authentic Arabic food.
Try the Bosnian coffee at Caffe Divan in Morica Han in Bascarsija. Last but not least, the atmosphere at Zlatna Ribica bar is wacky and and well worth a visit.
One Week in Bosnia – Mostar – At Least Two Full Days
Arriving/Where to Stay
Mostar is one of the biggest highlights of our one week in Bosnia trip and a Balkans trip in general. There is a fast train from Sarajevo to Mostar that takes around two hours and costs 14.10 marks after tax (~$7.5). Taking the bus will be slightly longer and not necessarily cheaper, while driving a rental car will take two hours.
I’d recommend either staying in Mostar’s enchanting Old Town or somewhere in between Spanski Trg and the train station, for day trip purposes. Regardless, the train station and bus station to Blagaj (more on that later) are less than a 25 minute walk from Old Town.
Apartments on Booking.com seem to be around $25-30 per night while a hostel bed is slightly more expensive than Sarajevo, starting at $13 per night. Taso’s House and Hostel Miran are two solid options.
Things to Do
Drop everything and head straight to Old Town to see all of the views of Stari Most, Mostar’s famous Old Bridge. The bridge was destroyed in 1993 during the Bosnian war but reconstructed to its former glory in 2004 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Some of the best places to snap a photo of the iconic Ottoman arch include nearby bridge Lucki Most, the beach below the bridge, the diving platform across the Neretva River from the beach and the minaret of the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque.
On the way to the mosque, you’ll pass the Bazar Kujundziluk, which has tons of handicrafts and souvenirs. In Old Town, don’t forget to check out the small Crooked Bridge. Walking through the narrow cobblestone streets feels like transporting back in time.
Other activities in Mostar include hiking up to Fortica Hill, visiting the Museum of War and Genocide Victims, Partisan Memorial Cemetery and Karadoz Beg Mosque.
One Week in Bosnia – Mostar Day Trips
Pocitelj
Mostar is well-positioned for visitors to check out some intriguing villages and natural areas.
I took the train from Mostar to Capljina to visit Pocitelj, a historic village that’s now an open air museum, and I was happy I did. There aren’t too many daily departures so tourists should check with a worker at the station to plan their trip. The train is cheap and took about 25 minutes. From Capljina, I walked an hour from to Pocitelj. With a car, your journey will be much easier and will only take about 30 minutes.
The half-abandoned hillside village was one of the most photogenic places in the Balkans and it’s on a beautiful location on the Neretva. There are plenty of historic structures to see and explore. After spending a couple of hours there, I walked back to Capljina to catch a bus back to Mostar because the next train wasn’t for hours.
Blagaj
The second day trip I did from Mostar led to one of the dumbest decisions I have ever made. However, I have no one to blame but myself.
First things first, you can get to Blagaj from Mostar by taking the #10 or #11 bus from United World College near Spanski Trg. It only costs a few marks. Blagaj is notable for its beautiful cliff and waterside Blagaj Tekke monastery on the Vrelo Bune spring.
For 10 marks you can enter the monastery and make sure to dress conservatively if you do. Instead of visiting the monastery, I decided to hike up to Herceg Stjepan’s Fortress. I noticed on maps.me that there was a more scenic route than just stairs to get there. I climbed up a few ladders which weren’t terribly steep but then I, not so quickly, realized my mistake once ladders turned into pegs.
I was mistakenly on a Via Ferrata. After a certain point, it felt like it would be more dangerous to turn back than to keep going. So, I kept climbing up cliffs with no gear. In those moments when my legs were shaking uncontrollably, I realized just how much I wanted to be alive. The grand irony of it all is that I reached the top near the fortress without too many issues but fell walking down the “safe” route and cut up my hand.
Overall, I would highly recommend visiting the fortress as long as your route there doesn’t put you at risk of death. Another popular day trip from Mostar is the Kravica Waterfall but I didn’t have time for it.
Where to Eat/Drink
Once you’re safe and back in Mostar, delicious food awaits. I liked National Restaurant Tima-Irma so much that I ate there three days in a row. It’s an incredible value for money and with plenty of meat, veggies and bread, what’s not to like? People also recommend Sadrvan Restaurant and Hindin Han for traditional Bosnian cuisine.
The excellent view of Stari Most is a huge draw for Urban Taste of Orient but the Turkish breakfast is worth coming for on its own.
Bakery Dan i Noc (Day and Night) lives up to its name as it serves up burek and other pastries from 6 am to 12 midnight.
Club Shpitza is a local cafe/bar away from the tourist area with outdoor seating. Craft Beer Garden imaimoze and Rebels Pub are two other good options to get drinks at.
One Week in Bosnia – Trebinje – One Full Day
Arriving/Where to Stay
The last stop on our one week in Bosnia itinerary is Trebinje, a city on the Trebisnjica river. It’s located in the Republika Srpska close to the Croatia and Montenegro borders.
The bus trip from Mostar takes about three and a half hours and typically costs around $15. Those with a car should be able to get from Mostar to Trebinje in just under two hours.
Trebinje is a small walkable city with very cheap apartments on Booking.com. There are places within walking distance of the center for around $15 per night.
Things to Do
Trebinje has a very pretty Old Town with plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants in Trg Slobode, the central square. Life moves at a slow pace in Trebinje and it has an infectious energy. Take a stroll in Trebinje Park and wander around the city center stopping at the Orthodox Temple of Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord, Andjelka’s Gate and the Herzegovina Museum.
Walk along Obala Luke Vukajlovic on the other side of the river for nice views of Old Town. Continue along the river until you hit the Arslanagic Bridge, another shining example of Ottoman architecture in Bosnia.
If you’re up for a longer walk, head 30 mins to the Hercegovacka Granica Temple on top of a hill with panoramic views of Trebinje.
Where to Eat/Drink
Kukurica Vrtovi is about a mile and a half outside of the city center but it’s worth it. They have outdoor seating along the river and have some excellent fish dishes. They’re open from breakfast until dinner.
Lusac is another option for traditional food and fish dishes. They really seem to love their fish in Trebinje, after all they’re only 30 minutes from Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea.
L’Sashon is a quick option for food on the go like sandwiches and gyros.
People rave about Grk Bard cafe and the wacky ice cream sundaes they serve up.
To close out your trip, have a cold one at Underground bar.
What’s Next?
That concludes our One Week in Bosnia itinerary but that doesn’t have to be it for your Balkan trip.
Trebinje is conveniently located just 30 minutes from Dubrovnik, Croatia and 45 minutes from Herceg Novi, Montenegro. Both cities are well worth visiting and could be starting points for trips in Croatia and Montenegro, respectively.
However, you’ll either want to have a car or make sure buses are running to these places first. I was out of luck when I traveled from Dubrovnik to Trebinje during shoulder season in October.
Instead of a bus, I ended up getting an Uber to the Bosnian border. I crossed on foot and arranged to get picked up by my kind Booking.com host once I went through passport control.
I do think buses to and from Trebinje to Herceg Novi run year round, though.
